Newport Brass Faucets
The thermostatic valve is an anti-scald valve that was designed to run multiple functions at one time or any combination therein. It has a paraffin wax sensor that reacts instantly to changes in temperature caused by either pressure or inlet temperature changes. If the water pressure drops or the hot water supply cools, the valve assures that the water temperature remains the same. This valve requires a separate Stop Valve/Volume Control for each function in the bathroom, also the thermostatic valve is a mixing valve only, it cannot control on or off to any function.
It is very important when installing this valve that the installation instructions are followed exactly. If one thing is not done or done incorrectly by the plumber then it can affect the entire operation of the valve. Most of the time the problems that occur when this valve is installed, are with the installation of the valve itself. The first and most important thing is that the plumber must plug one of the two outlets either on top or bottom of the valve. It does not matter which port is plugged, because if both are used the valve cannot correctly set the temperature of the water and you will experience either all hot water or all cold water that the user would not be able to adjust. This plug is included with the thermostatic valve. Another common problem is if the valve is installed upside down or if the hot and cold inlets were reversed, unlike our balanced pressure valves, the thermostatic valve does not have a reversible cartridge. In this case the plumber would have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve correctly. Our thermostatic valve comes set from the factory to have the water at 100 degrees, if the installing plumber touches or adjusts the stem it will directly affect the temperature settings of the valve and would have to be recalibrated by plumber by using a thermometer with the water running to have it reset to the correct temperature.
When installing a thermostatic system it is important that the sum total of water consumption of the combined shower outlets does not exceed the rated GPM of the thermostatic valve. With the �” piping to the thermostatic valve you are will get approximately 14-16gpm and with �” piping you will get approximately 10-12gpm. If you have 6 body sprays at 2.5gpm each, 1 showerhead at 2.5gpm, and 1 hand shower at 2.5gpm, you cannot run all of these functions at the same time from one thermostatic valve. In the above example you would be using a total of 20gpm which one thermostatic valve cannot accommodate. You will need to run two separate thermostatic valves if this is the case or eliminate some functions out of the setup or use only some of the units at one time without any other functions running.
Stop Valves/Volume Controls
Stop valves/volume controls must be used with a thermostatic system. The main thermostatic valve itself does not shut off so it is constantly on. You will need one stop valve for each function in the bathroom; the only exception would be with the body sprays. You can put up to 4 body sprays on one �” stop valve and 2-3 body sprays on a �” stop valve. All of our stop valves have a 4” long stem and is required to be cut for the trim to fit correctly. Stop valves/volume controls must be installed the correct way so you do not experience any problems. If the stop valve is installed incorrectly the problem may not arise immediately; it may show up in a week or in six months. When installing the stop valve/volume controls the plumber should take note of the arrow on the side of the valve which shows which way the water should beflowing. If the valve is installed upside down the plumber must go into the wall and re-plumb that valve. If the valve is installed you can check if it was installed correctly without having to go into the wall, by removing the cartridge of the stop valve. There should be a hole in the top or on the outlet side of the stop valve/volume control. If it is on the bottom or the inlet side then the valve was installed incorrectly and the plumber would have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve.
You may not use a diverter in any circumstance with a thermostatic system. The first reason is because it defeats the purpose of a thermostatic valve in the first place, it limits you to choose either one function or another when the thermostatic valve was designed to be able to use more than one function at a time. Second and most importantly in whatever function that the diverter is hooked up, water will come out of all functions linked to the diverter at once. It will not divert the water from one to another.
We offer thermostatic trim to match all of our series. However since you cannot put a lever handle on the main thermostatic trim, our series’ that use a lever handle either have a circular handle or a t-bar style handle. This is because if a lever is used it cannot be left pointing up since there is no tension to keep it in place, which would change the temperature on the user. The thermostatic trim is located in the catalog with each series. It will either have its own specific trim or it will show the closest match. Also stop valves use a separate handle and escutcheon which also can be found next to the thermostatic trim in the catalog for each series.
Since there was a different thermostatic valve that we used, there is old style trim that still is available if necessary for replacement purposes. The valve change was in September of 2002. It is easy to identify if it is new or old style by the look of the trim. The old style square trim was actually rectangular shaped, and the round trim had a big oval indention in the middle. If the current trim number is 3-924TR/10B, then the old style part number would be 3-924TR.NC/10B. Since this was a change with the valve and the manufacturer of the valve, the cartridges are not interchangeable.
If the plumber installed the valve too far back into the wall we make an extension for the thermostatic valve only, not the stop valves. The part is a 1-3/8” extension which is a finished piece; they cannot be stacked upon each other. If more than 1-3/8” is needed by the plumber they would have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve closer to the wall.
Common Issues and Solutions
� Water is coming out of all the functions and I cannot turn the water off.
You must install one stop valve for every function in the bathroom. The plumber will have to go back into the wall and re-plumb the setup correctly, and you cannot use a diverter whatsoever.
� I’m only getting all hot or all cold water.
� First, check and see if one of the outlets was plugged. If not the plumber will have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve correctly.
� Second, make sure the hot and cold inlets were piped correctly and that valve was not installed upside down which would reverse the hot and cold inlets. The plumber would have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve correctly.
� Reset check stops and clean filter on cartridge per instructions.
� I’m getting varying temperatures and cannot control from hot to cold.
Make sure the hot and cold inlets were piped correctly and that valve was not installed upside down which would reverse the hot and cold inlets. The plumber would have to go into the wall and re-plumb the valve correctly.
� The water isn’t getting as hot as 120�.
The valve has to be recalibrated by the plumber; most likely the stem was turned before or during installation.
Reset check stops and clean filter on cartridge per instructions.
� I have 4 functions but only one of the functions barely dribbles out water.
Make sure that the sum total of water consumption of the combined shower outlets does not exceed the rated GPM of the thermostatic valve.
Make sure that the body sprays are on a loop system.
� No water is coming out from the function I have my stop valve hooked up to.
Check to see if the stop valve was installed correctly. There is an arrow on the side of the valve body that should follow the direction of the water. If you cannot see the side of the stop valve you can remove the cartridge from the stop valve body, there should be a hole that should be on the outlet side of the valve body. If the hole is on the inlet side of the valve body the stop valve will need to be re-plumbed in the wall.
Cartridges & Misc.
� Cartridge for new style thermostatic valve (After 9/02) = 1-102
� Cartridge for old style thermostatic valve (Before 9/02) = 1-088
� Check Stops (same for hot and cold) = 1-103
� 1-3/8” extension for the 1-540 valve = 2-260/(finish)
� 1-3/8” Extension for old style 1-540 (Before 9/02) = 2-260.NC/(Finish)
� Cartridge for 1-606C = 1-510
� Torque-able cartridge for 1-606C = 1-543
� Cartridge for 1-606H = 1-511
� Torque-able cartridge for 1-606H = 1-544
� Cartridge for 1-607C = 1-517
� Cartridge for 1-607H = 1-518